First of all, it should be noted that any beauty-shooting is the work of a whole team of professionals: not only the photographer, but also the stylist, make-up artist, and so on. From the quality of the source material, as well as from the author's ideas, the style and peculiarities of retouching will depend. The task should be clearly spelled out for the retoucher, specifically in this direction, retouching almost never has freedom for the flight of the master's fantasy.
Everything is done in order to further reveal and emphasize the author's original idea.
In the previous article on the topic of beauty retouching we already touched upon such aspects as the features of photo processing for the advertising campaigns of cosmetics, for the editorial. We also talked about trends towards the maximum preservation of natural textures and colors. Let's take a closer look at the new make-up retouching elements.
Skin. First of all, you need to analyze the quality of the skin, as well as the lighting that was used during the shooting. There are two main ways to retouch the skin, given these two factors, as well as the features of the makeup model itself:
- matte skin: in addition to the very scheme of light - the effect of matte skin is achieved through the use of powder in make-up, and at the retouching stage this means a softer light;
- shining or glossy skin: firstly it's make-up and the light that show the radiance at the stage of the shooting itself. Often - this is the effect of the so-called "wet skin". Here we preserve the original glare as much as possible. Also, we work very closely with the shadow/light scheme, preserving, and sometimes adding natural light. Here, special attention is paid to skin cleansing, it is not thoroughly cleaned out so as not to create the effect of "plastic" - we remove only obvious shortcomings, preserving the texture and pattern of the skin.
2. Eyebrows. When working with eyebrows, it is very important to consider the initial quality of the material. In any case, the brow is drawn manually with a confident retouching hand using a graphic tablet. If the eyebrow is not in focus on the source, the retoucher can not use a hard brush to draw it, but selects a soft brush. In order to create an ideal picture, the retoucher takes into account the structure and thickness of the eyebrow hair, the direction of growth. Brushes for each project are usually created anew. Sometimes a technique is used to fill the shadows with too large a gap between the hairs.
3. Eyelashes. Here, the technique of work is very similar to the one of eyebrows, and in addition, it is necessary to remove all unwanted elements - lumps of mascara, if this is not intended by the author. Eyelashes that break out of general order, or protrude too strongly on proteins or pupils of the eyes.
4. Lips. Here, as in the work with the skin, but already depending on the idea of the photographer two methods of processing are used:
- deducing clear contours: the line of bending of the lips and the applied lipstick is brought almost to the ideal, here we apply liquefy and clean any unwanted elements. It is important not to overdo and preserve the natural look of the lips, their natural folds, dimples and lines. Usually the lower lip gets a little less light, so it is fine to make it a little less clear than the upper one.
- shading: this method is usually present where it is necessary to create "lightness", "airiness" or deliberate art effect.
In working with the lips, we take into account another widespread phenomenon like gluing of the corners of the lips. This defect we delicately eliminate by means of a stamp, and the drawing of shadows.
5. "Flowing make-up." It often happens that during the shooting, make-up can flow: too warm, little time for the perfect make-up, etc. In this case, it is important to understand: how the make-up should look initially and have a clear task from the photographer.
In conclusion of our article, we want to emphasize once again the importance of preserving the naturalness in the image of the model, no matter how the photograph is used, as the final product. Modern trends have long gone from complete disregard for the texture of the skin and creating the effect of "plastic". Now all our efforts are aimed at emphasizing the naturalness, while eliminating all distracting elements.